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In the pool itself, Vogue fashion editor Grace Coddington clung to the side. Among the guests: model Karin Feddersen in a scarlet pleated chiffon dress by Nettie Vogues future Bond girl and actress Barbara Carrera in a floral Dior evening dress and Uva Barden in black tie.

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Here a poolside jet-set cocktail party, albeit an exclusive one, was in full swing. Taken at the Hotel Byblos, St Tropez, it chimed with Newton’s observation, “Although it makes my life more complicated, I prefer to take my camera into public and private places, places often inaccessible to anyone but the rich.” “Limelight Nights” was published in 1973. And it was for the British edition that he made one of his most memorable pool pictures. “My passion for swimming pools just will not stop,” he told Vogue in 1976. There is nothing I can do to make her lifelike. Whichever way I turn her, she’s got a dumb look in her eyes. There is another one I call ‘Le Con’, which means idiot. There is one that’s really sexy with a submissive look in her eyes.

This is from World Without Men (1984): “It’s fascinating to play with these mannequins,” he writes. Of the sexual connotations – and possibilities – of these lifelike “dolls”, he was hardly oblivious. And it was at British Vogue that he began to explore the potential of shooting fashion on shop window mannequins, tricking the eye by making them as believably human as possible.

Helmut newton posters